Monday, June 6, 2011

Another Pilgrim

Dear Co-walker,

The first part of three is a fact, and late this morning this pilgrim walked into Merida. This means that the back part of the bus for FSA in Ethiopia (www.fsaethiopia.org) is a fact, at least I believe it is! Now up to the middle part when I start walking tomorrow direction Zamora for the second lap. You keep walking with me, don't you?

What follows is a report on the last three days walking:

June 2nd: to Don Benito
When I came back to the sportshall last night to lie down on my mat, I nearly stood on the head of another person...and got a fright! Another pilgrim was given permission to use the same place to sleep, which is ok but I didn't know! The head veered up from the sleep and she introduces herself as Heidi from Austria. I also introduced myself and much further the conversation did not go. Though I must confess that I was happy not to be last pilgrim for this season. Heidi had heard some five days ago that a Dutchman was ahead of her, and seeing my mat had decided this must belong to the Dutchman...... This morning both of us rose early. Since I had packed quicker I gave her the keys to the place together with the instructions what to do with it, and this pilgrim left. 


Same beautiful landscape as yesterday, slightly more agricultural activities because the soil isn't as stony as it was yesterday. Much weat and also hortoculture like tomatoes and pumpkins. Saw a donkey draw a plough...! Loads of storks circling in the air, looking for their breakfast! No problem to them since there is plenty of water and marshland. I also met an enormous herd of sheep being brought to a different grazing ground by two men and two dogs. Fabulous to see how skilfully these dogs keep the herd together and drive it forward. After about 16km I stopped in a place called La Haba looking for a breakfast myself. I leave my backpack outside the bar and have a coffee. After about 20 minutes who walks through the door? Heidi! Isn't that something? We have breakfast together and exchange information. I'm able to tell her about my sponsored walk and about the work FSA in Ethiopia is doing. I also give her the www.fsaethiopia.org address for her to have a look at the site. Then we take leave of each other (again) and off she goes, using her Nordic walking sticks. This pilgrim follows at some distance having his walking stick at its usual place: over the shoulders. In this way we walk for another 6 km to Don Benito where I look for a place to sleep. Heidi continues because she walks on a tight schedule.

June 3rd: to San Pedro
Don Benito boosts a Saint James church which I wanted to see last night. Of course. Closed it was! The tourist office told me that it would open again at 9 at night..... Since that same office had a seal for my pilgrimpass, I got the pass stamped. I am not a collector of seals, but in the North of Merida one often can get only into places for the night when one has a pilgrimpass sealed at the various places.

This morning I went early again having checked on the road out of town the previous night. Still I have to ask to be sure. The yellow arrows leading the way are not always visible this early. Once out of town the Camino is a track sometimes very grassy and therefore difficult. In Medellin I take a coffee and something to eat, and after that small town this pilgrim has to make a difficult decision: either to take the short route and ford the river Bordalo, or take the longer route crossing the same river by a bridge, a difference of 7 km. I had decided for the longer option, but once at the junction I see myself going for the shorter route....! How flexible (or inpredictable!) one can be! This pilgrim follows the yellow arrows leading me through a flat fertile plane with maize, tomatoes and....yes, rice! On the other side of Medellin I had already noticed some submerged fields and got the idea that this could be for rice cultivation. And so it is. Plenty of water is provided by an intricate irrigation system which is being upgraded by funds from the EU. And where do I end up? Yes, at the bridge! How I don't know. This means that I'm much longer on the road than foreseen. It means as well that I am exceedingly tired once in San Pedro. But before that I pass extensive areas with fruit trees mainly plums of which I try one or two...Not really ripe yet! A pity.

June 4th: to Merida
An easy one today, only 14 km. I can do it on one leg, so to speak. Though it shouldn't be my right one because yesterday a blister has developed on my right heel...Too bad. After thousands of kms without ever having had even one blister, now it happens.... We will see to it tonight. The route is easy I wanted to say. To Trujillanos over an asphalted road next to the highway and later over a dirt road right to the edge of town. Many olivegroves again.
Once in town I work my way to the centre to find the tourist office closed. I have a coke at the Plaza de Espagna and walk North, the direction of the Camino, searching for a hostal. Meanwhile I have decided to continue walking tomorrow, having plenty of time this afternoon to see the city. And so this pilgrim plays the tourist.... I see the main attractions from the Roman time when Merida was the capital city of this part of the Empire. I saw the beautiful and spacy museum, I see the amphitheater, the theatre,the best preserved of all, I see the remains of an impressive aquaduct, and this pilgrim walks through the arch used by emperor Traian.....Feels great indeed!

Be well and God bless you,
says Jan, the pilgrim

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